On the 15t of December I started my first trip to India, namely its southern part and the states of Tamil Nadu, Kerala, and Goa.
I don’t claim for any artistic value in the blog posts that follow. Nor are these intended for advising travellers what to see in India. The purpose is purely egoistic – structuring and reflecting on my experience so that it stays vividly as long as possible. If someone will find these notes useful – great. If not, I don’t bother.
My flight from Kuala Lumpur was bound to Chennai that just suffered a severe flood. It was a sleepless night at the airport of KL where I arrived from Singapore. Before departure I went online and saw that Google embedded a yoga asana into its search engine name. I treated this as a good sign.
One the plane good to know an educated Indian man (name omitted for privacy concerns) working for one of the most famous American companies (name omitted again) in San Fransisco. He was visiting his native Chennai after a honeymoon with his wife in South East Asia. We had a nice chat, they recommended me how to get around in Chennai, and helped find a local train station near the airport upon arrival.
First-minute impressions of Chennai: big, dirty, stinky, noisy, friendly. I took a local train in the direction of the hostel where I planned to stay overnight. Along the way always asked for assistance where to get off, to transfer, etc. Everyone was very helpful. The train is crazy – dirty, smelly, with people stuck like sardines, getting on after the train started and getting off before it stopped. I saw Youtube videos on the local train experience in Mumbai, but to to experience it myself was totally different. I actually enjoyed it because for me it was part of the real experience, rather than just taking a cab.
Took a loot of time to find the hostel after getting off the train at Indra Nagar. The language barrier is there, but not so much. A mixture of greeting in Tamil + request in English + thanking in Tamil works fine. First-minute impressions were aggravated – super dirty, super stinky, super friendly 🙂 In many streets piles of garbage were just in the middle of the road. The youth hostel was no exception in terms of cleanliness and smell. Besides, all the rooms were booked. The man at the reception was very helpful: he explained several options how to get to the T-Nagar bus terminal (from where I decided to go to the nearby Mamallapuram), and even draw a map 🙂
My understanding is that Chennai is a typical Indian megapolis. Extremely noisy and dusty in the streets. The traffic seems to be crazy, cars, buses, tuk-tuks (yellow three-wheel cabs), cows … everyone constantly horning and creating accident-risk situations. No rules for pedestrian-crossing. At some point you just start crossing the road 🙂 In one word – CHAOS. And guess what, somehow that chaos WORKS in India.
Riding a local bus was another tremendous experience. For 13 rupees I took a half-hour ride through the centre. The buses are very old and rusty 🙂 There is a conductor who collects the money and blows a whistle if a passenger requests a stop, and after the bus starts off.
After arriving at the bus terminal, found out that the next bus to Mamallapuram was due in 2 hours. Several times locals came up to help. Since I had time, I went out to explore the neighborhood. First stopped by at a hotel to have lunch, but turned out it was too early (before 12). Went to to a local supermarket to by some water and fruit (I remain very skeptical of the food and water sold in the street). Afterwards browsed the Pondy Bazaar (market). The feeling was surrealist – people selling food, clothes, what not amidst the dirt and smell of sewage. Small shopping malls were also there – shiny shops bordering the kingdom of dirt and dust.
Also explored a textile fabric shop. Every time the shop assistants were chasing me, even though I said several times I was just looking around. Went on to the nearby hotel to have a briyoni chicken with rice for lunch (was quite dubious about hygiene, but the food was OK, and I was finally OK too), and returned to the bus terminal.
The ride to Mamallapuram took two hours. It was incredible. It was VERY noisy as we passed through Chennai. Our own bus was horning loudly all the time, and sometimes giving a lower long horn like the ships do. The road was like a roller-coaster. I nearly fell asleep several times – to be awaken by another bad bump along the road. IT WAS FUN.
After arriving to Mamallapuram I found the Lakshmi Cottage quickly (Lakshmi is the goddess of wealth in Indian mythology) by the way. Needless to say, I was called out numerous times and inited to have a look at the stuff sold by the locals. I felt the day was so long, but when I looked at the clock, it was just over 3 pm!
The first half day has been very interesting, exotic, and tiring.
After taking a shower and taking a breath, exploration of Mamallapuram – a village famous for its stonework – started.